Waitrose email 'service'

I'm really not sure how to start this rant.  Waitrose and John Lewis sell the idea that they are a bit better than everyone else.  And I'd say that was the case until today.
When you sign up with Waitrose broadband, you get an email address. Having had this  a few years, the spam level received was getting to around 10 / day.  I checked on the web app and found the spam filter was off.  Turning it on made no difference. There were rules to set up so I set up the handful of spammer's email addresses to divert to the bin, but that didn't work either.
I contacted support and after a few days they told me it was working fine as there was spam in the junk folder. Spam I'd put there. So back to support and 2 replies and 1 week later I was told to use the John Lewis web app. So I did this and got server errors returned when reporting spam, and the spam kept coming.
So I contacted support and they finally told me that the Waitrose mail server is very old and doesn't work for spam and filtering and the John Lewis web app doesn't work for Waitrose customers.
So, to summarise, about 5 hours work over the 2 weeks it took them to reply finally made them admit that they have no spam filter. Why they couldn't just tell me this on day 1 is totally beyond me.
Their best suggestion was to get a third party email.  I think I'll just get a new ISP. 

Waitrose Wasters.

Jet wash of deck

Jet washed the deck over the last 3 days.  About 4-5 hours, 600 l of water.

Stone pile

33 barrow loads of stones (1.5t ?) taken from the old log store area (now a planting area) up near to the new wood store area on the north boundary

No 2 rcd trip

During the last thunder storms rcd no2 has tripped. I'd put this down to ground potential differences as 2 outdoor sockets are on this rcd. Another outdoor socket, slightly further away on an adjacent rcd was ok. Last trip, I'd noticed the rcd a bit reluctant to reset, and put this down to water in the outside circuits.
Today, no 2 reset ok; it has been very dry in the last few week, but was pissing down during the storm. As I happened to have a spare AC type, I've swapped out the 2009 nalto 40A/30mA type AC (only 3kva!) for a 2005 10kva 80A merlin gerin.
The fridge/freezer had been on no 2.  I've moved it to a spare dedicated circuit on another rcd, which was for the oven.  There is also another spare 32A circuit for  the cooker if needed.
Also did routine maintenance on the board, rcd trips & screw tightness.

Wood

Well, not wood but logs.
The end of winter 2015-16 saw about 0.75 stere of logs in the store.
6 trailer loads of logs (about 2 hours per load ~0.5st - cutting trees into 25cm lengths, splitting, moving trailer to store, stacking in store) have now been stacked, adding about 2.75 stere
24/8 added another 2 trailer loads. Store up to 4.5 st.

Menabo roof bars

A set of aluminium locking bars for €86 delivered, or about 1/2 of what Thule want. My existing Thule 750 feet will not in any way work with the new fitting kit (confirmed by Thule  and a few posts on-line) which requires a 754. A 754 is over €100, plus the fitting kit at around €40. The existing bars are possibly ok, but a tad short. Thule refused to tell me if I could modify the 750 to make them work, so I took this as a yes, but it's a (financial) risk. Thule told me there was no way except to use a 754. They lost their sense of humour when I pointed out that they had competitors and that I can buy and throw the Menabo bars away and still have enough cash left over to buy another set. Perhaps there's no price comparison internet in Sweden.
So Menabo bars it is. They're ok. For reasons best known the them (well, it's cheaper) the bars don't use the threaded holes for the bars under the gutters. Still, they fit just fine and are nice and light. Like Thule, they use an annoying allen key to tighten it all down.
A nice touch on the rails is a channel you can drop fixings into, so the ski rack can just slide on.

Dewalt DC981 Rohm chuck

Securing screw for chuck is Torx t20 LH. Measures 6.2mm on thread, 5.7 on shank. Not a set screw.hex head  - it had a rounded rather than flat bottom to the head.
Found a Dewalt service sheet that implies it's always a bit stiff, as there is a special fixture, which involved removing part of the drill initially. IIRC Tighten screw to 9Nm and chuck to 45Nm.
A bit reluctant, but a soak in lubricating oil over night loosened it up. Put back without thread lock.
Didn't remove chuck. Cleaned up the jaws, and oiled as much as possible. One stiff point around 8mm went away. Hopefully this will cure the slippage.
Looked and didn't find any videos, but it looks like the way into the chuck is to hold the area just below the knurled part (probably need to remove chuck) and unscrew normally. Watch out for falling ball bearings!