We had the first frost a few weeks back, but it's not been that cold. This week the temperatures have dropped and the trend is getting colder.
Snow tyres on and chains in the boot.
Wednesday, 25 November 2015
Monday, 2 November 2015
New data cable
A cat 5 cable I pulled in alongside the main supply cable 3 years ago has been losing cores over the years. I'm now down to 4 cores, 2 having failed together last week. It was supposed to be underground grade, but the sheath was weak and I'm pretty sure it was torn in places when I pulled it in. I use this cable to monitor water usage (70m supply pipe so I want to make sure it's intact) electricity use, and to monitor the letter box.
New build properties require a number of underground ducts from the house to the road. These are really useful when it comes time to change a cable.
For telecoms use, 2 ducts are laid. 1 has the phone line, and the spare has now got a new data cable, a cheap CCA cat 5. I checked the sheath and its intact, put plenty of lubricant in the duct and the first few metres that popped out the other end are undamaged. I didn't pull in another draw wire, as these invariably wrap around the pulled cable and make pulling in a second cable more prone to damage both, plus extra stress on the new cable.
I havent removed the dodgy cable, as it will be wrapped around the heavy supply cable in another duct, and would likely just snap.
I have another duct to the gates which has the dodgy cat 5 cable in, but this was pulled in with the power cable so very little stress. So far.
New build properties require a number of underground ducts from the house to the road. These are really useful when it comes time to change a cable.
For telecoms use, 2 ducts are laid. 1 has the phone line, and the spare has now got a new data cable, a cheap CCA cat 5. I checked the sheath and its intact, put plenty of lubricant in the duct and the first few metres that popped out the other end are undamaged. I didn't pull in another draw wire, as these invariably wrap around the pulled cable and make pulling in a second cable more prone to damage both, plus extra stress on the new cable.
I havent removed the dodgy cable, as it will be wrapped around the heavy supply cable in another duct, and would likely just snap.
I have another duct to the gates which has the dodgy cat 5 cable in, but this was pulled in with the power cable so very little stress. So far.
Sunday, 25 October 2015
Planting trees
Well, not planting trees which will grow.
This is a structure to replace an ugly chicken wire fence, which was put up in a hurry as the deer liked our veg more than us. It's slightly shorter than we wanted, but the bottom rail is one tree, and they are tricky to transport. It's about 7m long. The top rail is 2 trees.
Most of the posts are ~2.2m/20cm tall pieces off a pair of adjacent oaks, dropped into a hole with some drainage and then the dug clay rammed back in. Very solid.
Whilst each post is very heavy, and the fence represents a few weeks of fuel for the fire, it was less effort to plant them, than to season, cut, split & stack.
Whilst each post is very heavy, and the fence represents a few weeks of fuel for the fire, it was less effort to plant them, than to season, cut, split & stack.
Saturday, 17 October 2015
Finished bringing back all the trees
Around Feb 2012, I got 2 years to cut the trees from the woods. We had an unspecified time to get them home. It's only 500m away, but it's taken until now to finish. A friend with a couple of tractors got the last 5 stere back this afternoon in 2 loads.
So now all I've got to do is cut, move and stack it in the corner to season it for a year or 2.
In terms of economy, I think I'm better of buying it. I paid around €75 for 15 stere, so €5/stere, a saving of around €55/stere, or a total saving of €825. But there is the fuel for tractors, chainsaws, plus maintenance & time. Today was 6 hours, and I've spent around 60 hours cutting, plus time for moving/stacking. Then the time you don't really count like the post-cutting drinking with your friends, or returning favours.
Mustn't forget that the stacked wood, whether home grown or purchased, still needs to be cut into lengths and diameters that the fire will swallow, then stacked in a dry area for use, then brought into the house as required. It is a form of exercise.
I'd almost forgotten the push button convenience of gas central heating. Having a well insulated house, the 15 stere will last us around 7 years, but this amount is a normal annual usage for a classic farmhouse.
March 2016. Found another 2 car trailer loads and brought them back!
So now all I've got to do is cut, move and stack it in the corner to season it for a year or 2.
In terms of economy, I think I'm better of buying it. I paid around €75 for 15 stere, so €5/stere, a saving of around €55/stere, or a total saving of €825. But there is the fuel for tractors, chainsaws, plus maintenance & time. Today was 6 hours, and I've spent around 60 hours cutting, plus time for moving/stacking. Then the time you don't really count like the post-cutting drinking with your friends, or returning favours.
Mustn't forget that the stacked wood, whether home grown or purchased, still needs to be cut into lengths and diameters that the fire will swallow, then stacked in a dry area for use, then brought into the house as required. It is a form of exercise.
I'd almost forgotten the push button convenience of gas central heating. Having a well insulated house, the 15 stere will last us around 7 years, but this amount is a normal annual usage for a classic farmhouse.
March 2016. Found another 2 car trailer loads and brought them back!
Thursday, 15 October 2015
Wednesday, 14 October 2015
Wednesday, 9 September 2015
Thursday, 27 August 2015
Shower Mixer
mitigeur de douche thermostatique
The mixer has always been a bit poor and hard to adjust. Pretty sure I've had it apart before. About €45 from Bricomarche 2-3 years ago. Just recently it's almost impossible to adjust the temperature as it's so stiff, and full hot is blending in cold. It's a common problem in the forums, and the mixer cartridge is excluded from the guarantee. I didnt look too hard, but the cheapest cartridge was around €90, and they all look pretty similar. Castorama sell a complete thermostatic mixer at €30. Mail order from €23 + delivery.
We are 2 on a scale of 1 to 10 water hardness, 1 being soft.
The cartridge, below, is held in with 1 screw, but the scale/soap held it fast. Luckily there are some flats that allow it to be twisted to free it, then drift it out carefully using the screw hole. Don't remove the other end as the seating washer is a critical one and didn't look common. This on/off valve shuts the output, so failed seals in the mixer will just keep leaking.
To open the cartridge put the flats near the control in the vice, then use a 24mm spanner on the flats further up. Sadly the opening is too small for the spanner, even with a bit of filing, so the grips took care of it.
The 3 left most items (after the body), should spring out. Mine were ceased, so carefully pressed out. Removed all the scale with emery cloth on all faces and re-assembled with a good dab of silicon. Same with the valve body.
The item to the right of the black pin has a movable, sprung plate. This was ceased. Freed by gently squeezing in a vice and silicon sprayed in.
On the cartridge, the end that isn't the control, is the mixed out. The next mesh is hot, then cold. The item pushed by the spring is the thermostatic bit. Fully left, it shuts off hot & vice versa. Turning the knob to °C physically forces the thermostatic bit to cold.
To put the temp control in the right place, turn CW ie towards cold until resistance is felt, then continue until it feels tight - its about the distance between 20 & °C . Place the knob so the 'setting dot' matches °C . The knob should turn the opposite way to beyond 50 and to within about 5mm of °C.
At room temperature, selecting full hot will mean the cold port is blocked. Once the thermostatic bit gets cold eg during tests with cold water, water will freely pass from the hot inlet to outlet, irrespective of setting temp. Also, the resistance noticed above for setting the knob will go. During testing with air, noticed the hot passes to cold. Once wet, the NRVs built into the inlet stop this.
The valve does pass a little on full hot or cold, as it's just metal to metal contact on the mix bit.
Probably need to fully exercise the valve daily to stop scale forming on the thermostatic seat.
Very similar to Hudson Reed Cartouche thermostatique pour mitigeur de baignoire îlot
Référence Produit : SPN322C
July 2017. Mixer would not give full hot, so stripped and rebuild. No change, so replaced it with a Aquatrends Siena, allegedly a €48 item that Amazon had 'reconditioned' for €19 ie dented box. Overall length 259mm, a bit shorter than the old one. Ceramic disc.
Tuesday, 25 August 2015
Wednesday, 19 August 2015
Bread Machine
About 5 years ago we bought a Quigg (German) branded bread maker, based on its low power consumption for off-grid use, and price. It was pretty cheap at €45. The seal on the baking tin failed very quickly, so oil was needed to keep it free on every use. Occasionally it would reset itself, normally towards the end of the bake, which meant the paddles tore a hole in the bread.
Over the years it has been apart for
1. fixing the reset; poorly put together and bits shorting out
2 replaced a dodgy looking capacitor on the power supply
3 failed over temperature sensor
4 drive bearings going oval
The last item, combined with a failing tin seal has condemned it. In trying to find spares, it turned out that this item was a re-labelled Moulinex product.
We've now got a Kenwood BM250, which claims to be 'designed in UK, made in china'
The display is identical to the Quigg one, as is the annoying bleep on power up. From the little I can see through the base, the gears are similar. Whilst there can't be many variants on some items, the element and tin are fabricated in an identical fashion, even down to the machining marks.
The tin bearing failed after ~ 3 years and was nursed until July 2019, where I yanked it out and put some normal low temp o-rings in until a high temp bearing + seal turned up. Turns out the seal is non-replaceable unless you split the tin at the rivets.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Kenwood-Bread-Maker-BM-450-Bread-Pan-Shaft-Seal-Re/
The original is marked 19mm, but that's at the bottom; it's 17mm at the top, which is the largest you can push in. The first seal worked its way out and failed. The second one I glued in with liquid gasket which is also temp rated. Seems ok after a few uses. (Sep 19)
Over the years it has been apart for
1. fixing the reset; poorly put together and bits shorting out
2 replaced a dodgy looking capacitor on the power supply
3 failed over temperature sensor
4 drive bearings going oval
The last item, combined with a failing tin seal has condemned it. In trying to find spares, it turned out that this item was a re-labelled Moulinex product.
We've now got a Kenwood BM250, which claims to be 'designed in UK, made in china'
The display is identical to the Quigg one, as is the annoying bleep on power up. From the little I can see through the base, the gears are similar. Whilst there can't be many variants on some items, the element and tin are fabricated in an identical fashion, even down to the machining marks.
The tin bearing failed after ~ 3 years and was nursed until July 2019, where I yanked it out and put some normal low temp o-rings in until a high temp bearing + seal turned up. Turns out the seal is non-replaceable unless you split the tin at the rivets.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Kenwood-Bread-Maker-BM-450-Bread-Pan-Shaft-Seal-Re/
The original is marked 19mm, but that's at the bottom; it's 17mm at the top, which is the largest you can push in. The first seal worked its way out and failed. The second one I glued in with liquid gasket which is also temp rated. Seems ok after a few uses. (Sep 19)
Monday, 13 July 2015
Finished the en-suite
Well, almost. It's a lot more finished than it was 5 years ago when we started using it, needing just the skirting.
Put the half-floor tiles on the wall, as a skirting. This would have been easier if the guy that had installed the log burner hadn't damaged a lot of them.
Let me explain. The so-called professional that installed the log burner decided that it had to be fitted on ceramic tiles (it didn't if he'd read the manual) Unfortunately, he also botched the flue, so needed around 5cm of tiles to jack the fire up. The only box of tiles were the ones left for the en-suite skirting. By rocking and scraping the fire side to side while he 'installed' the fire and tiles, he scratched around 20 of the 25 tiles. Luckily, there are lots of blind spots in an en-suite, so the damage isn't readily obvious on the tiles, but it just took much longer to sort, move and cut damaged tiles.
I needed some caulk, around 4m. Ended up mixing about 50g of flour with the same volume of PVA and a drop of water, then put it in an old skeleton gun tube. We'll see how it lasts once painted, but I've yet to find a caulk that doesn't crack after a few years.
Now to paint the tile edge to match the wall.
Put the half-floor tiles on the wall, as a skirting. This would have been easier if the guy that had installed the log burner hadn't damaged a lot of them.
Let me explain. The so-called professional that installed the log burner decided that it had to be fitted on ceramic tiles (it didn't if he'd read the manual) Unfortunately, he also botched the flue, so needed around 5cm of tiles to jack the fire up. The only box of tiles were the ones left for the en-suite skirting. By rocking and scraping the fire side to side while he 'installed' the fire and tiles, he scratched around 20 of the 25 tiles. Luckily, there are lots of blind spots in an en-suite, so the damage isn't readily obvious on the tiles, but it just took much longer to sort, move and cut damaged tiles.
I needed some caulk, around 4m. Ended up mixing about 50g of flour with the same volume of PVA and a drop of water, then put it in an old skeleton gun tube. We'll see how it lasts once painted, but I've yet to find a caulk that doesn't crack after a few years.
Now to paint the tile edge to match the wall.
Sunday, 5 July 2015
DIY grain mill, or how to turn wood without a lathe
I brew beer. You can buy crushed grain, but it's more expensive and goes off quicker. As I go through 25kg in about a year, it's better whole, uncrushed. It's also quite difficult to find mail order. Buying crushed quantities less than 25kg doubles the cost, so €33 to €66.
Commercial crushers are around £150, being knurled steel rollers in a frame.
Having had a go at a crusher using a 13mm roughed up rod and a fixed plate (ok, but very very slow ~2kg/hour) I got a quote for some turned steel 40mm diameter, 200mm long, knurled. That worked out at around £50 + delivery.
You can use a corona style flour mill, but this is generally reckoned to be no good longer term, as the bits wear out, the genuine ones are expensive, and the copy ones are junk.
A google revealed that people had make wooden mills.
The hard bit is making round wood. Anything bought, like a rolling pin, cannot be post-drilled perfectly in the centre. As I have a few tonnne of beech and oak, it seemed a good idea to make some round stock.
Starting with a log that I cut for firewood this year. About 3 years old.
marking out the round - about 50mm. Hack it to rough size with an axe. Square cut one end. Mark centre on other end. Drill the hole on a pillar drill to suit a threaded bar. I used 8mm. Length was dictated by the longest drill bit.
Secure wood onto bar with 4 nuts and a few washers.
The 'lathe' 2 brackets to hold the blank at the ends. The uprights will support the router. All this lot is clamped to a work bench.
Mount the blanks and stick a very low rev motor on the shaft
Add a router. Start the rotation, ACW in my case.
Take small slices in many passes and create the stock.
If one end is a larger diameter than the other, pack the larger diameter end with half the diameter difference.
Voila. A run out of pretty much 0. A taper of around 0.3mm.
Next make a box and mount the rollers. One is 42mm, other 50mm. These were the biggest bits in the store. I added some horizontal slots to one roller for grip, but as both rollers must rotate, it doesnt really matter. It is reckoned that about 100mm, you don't need grip or drive both rollers (1 youtube video shows a metal version make out of 4" steel tube with just the odd groove) The 8mm shaft is rolled steel I had lying around. I drilled a 2mm hole in the shaft, fitted a pin and made a corresponding slot in the wood to get drive.
This moves about 0.5kg/minute, but does need two drills at say 200rpm. I'll need to make some cogs, and more importantly add some bearings. The box above just used a dab of grease and the gap adjustment to 1mm was done with some drilled plate screwed over over-size holes in the frame.
The rollers have a bit of denting, but are hardly marked. I'll try flaming the wood, which is apparently done on baseball bats. And make some bigger rollers. More importantly, mount the box over a barrel somehow, as it fills after about 700g of grain has passed through.
Bearings on order. 8mm shafts are used on skateboards, so bearings are readily available in 4 packs for a few £.
I have a motor and gearbox from an old can opener somewhere which should work well..
A few extra pictures from a later turning. I took ~200mm slices of beech, put a rod down the middle and reduced them to 100mm. The rig grew a little, but the same principal. And some skateboard bearings. Run out & taper around 0.1mm
Currently waiting to see if the 3 I cut will split before assembling a crusher.
Update 2/8/20. 5 years on, the rollers have not split. Did a quick test to check they work well enough to justify a full rig. Had to run both rollers, but only very slowly. Gap varied a lot, but statically about 0.5 - 1mm. Ran the grain through a second time, but it didnt change it very much. Rollers have a patina, but no great dents.
Commercial crushers are around £150, being knurled steel rollers in a frame.
Having had a go at a crusher using a 13mm roughed up rod and a fixed plate (ok, but very very slow ~2kg/hour) I got a quote for some turned steel 40mm diameter, 200mm long, knurled. That worked out at around £50 + delivery.
You can use a corona style flour mill, but this is generally reckoned to be no good longer term, as the bits wear out, the genuine ones are expensive, and the copy ones are junk.
A google revealed that people had make wooden mills.
The hard bit is making round wood. Anything bought, like a rolling pin, cannot be post-drilled perfectly in the centre. As I have a few tonnne of beech and oak, it seemed a good idea to make some round stock.
Starting with a log that I cut for firewood this year. About 3 years old.marking out the round - about 50mm. Hack it to rough size with an axe. Square cut one end. Mark centre on other end. Drill the hole on a pillar drill to suit a threaded bar. I used 8mm. Length was dictated by the longest drill bit.
Secure wood onto bar with 4 nuts and a few washers.
The 'lathe' 2 brackets to hold the blank at the ends. The uprights will support the router. All this lot is clamped to a work bench.
Add a router. Start the rotation, ACW in my case.
Take small slices in many passes and create the stock.If one end is a larger diameter than the other, pack the larger diameter end with half the diameter difference.
Voila. A run out of pretty much 0. A taper of around 0.3mm.
This moves about 0.5kg/minute, but does need two drills at say 200rpm. I'll need to make some cogs, and more importantly add some bearings. The box above just used a dab of grease and the gap adjustment to 1mm was done with some drilled plate screwed over over-size holes in the frame.
The rollers have a bit of denting, but are hardly marked. I'll try flaming the wood, which is apparently done on baseball bats. And make some bigger rollers. More importantly, mount the box over a barrel somehow, as it fills after about 700g of grain has passed through.
Bearings on order. 8mm shafts are used on skateboards, so bearings are readily available in 4 packs for a few £.
I have a motor and gearbox from an old can opener somewhere which should work well..
A few extra pictures from a later turning. I took ~200mm slices of beech, put a rod down the middle and reduced them to 100mm. The rig grew a little, but the same principal. And some skateboard bearings. Run out & taper around 0.1mm
Currently waiting to see if the 3 I cut will split before assembling a crusher.
Update 2/8/20. 5 years on, the rollers have not split. Did a quick test to check they work well enough to justify a full rig. Had to run both rollers, but only very slowly. Gap varied a lot, but statically about 0.5 - 1mm. Ran the grain through a second time, but it didnt change it very much. Rollers have a patina, but no great dents.
Sunday, 21 June 2015
De-frosted freezer
De-frosted freezer, about 15 mins & cleaned rear fins.
First fin clean since new (3 years)
First fin clean since new (3 years)
Sunday, 14 June 2015
Deck spring repair
How to repair a spring. Well, bodge a repair to a spring. This spring is pretty large - say 30cm total length. The hooked end snapped off with what looked like a manufacturing shear defect after only around 20 years service. Spares are available but around €20.
I simply got 2 cage terminals out of a 4mm din rail terminal which where the same width as the spring steel. Then I found some steel of the same diameter, put a hook on one end, then overlayed on the spring steel and tightened down the terminal clamps, locking them with thread lock.
As this spring takes up the slack on the deck blade engagement, when it's engaged, it's pretty well stretched out. OK after 1 hour.
I simply got 2 cage terminals out of a 4mm din rail terminal which where the same width as the spring steel. Then I found some steel of the same diameter, put a hook on one end, then overlayed on the spring steel and tightened down the terminal clamps, locking them with thread lock.
As this spring takes up the slack on the deck blade engagement, when it's engaged, it's pretty well stretched out. OK after 1 hour.
Friday, 29 May 2015
Oil change Harry + bikes
Halfords 10/40 semi-synthetic for the bikes + filter HF303 (+ about 1l of Motul same spec)
me 47440km
Stella 30718km
Ecauto (Intermarche) 15/40 for Harry 1.4 L.
Deck was thick with grass. Belt wear on inside edge closest to the ground. The old pulley was rusty on the inside edge, so used a rotary brush to clean in smooth. Replaced belt the other way up. All bolts needed tightening
Stripped and greased starter.
Clean all airways.
Cleaned & oil foam filter. (junior too)
Put long spring from governor to carb back on.
Filled holes in exhaust, new metal covers and put in some new fibre glass.
Spark plug was quite black, so brushed it clean. This suggest too rich, but idle mix was made richer turning ACW.
Turned idle mix out (ie richer) by 1/8 turn, so now 1 7/8 out, Reduced idle by 1/2 turn acw.
Plug was greyish on checking.
Warm starts ok on mid throttle now. Cold start fine. Oil clean
Bike discs.
me
rear 4.8 . pads both 5.3
front
left 5.0 pads 4.46, 4.34
right 4.95 pads 4.2, 4.3
Stella
rear 4.9 pads both 4.6
front
left 5.0 pads 4.4, 4.0
right 4.9 pads 4.6 4.2
me 47440km
Stella 30718km
Ecauto (Intermarche) 15/40 for Harry 1.4 L.
Deck was thick with grass. Belt wear on inside edge closest to the ground. The old pulley was rusty on the inside edge, so used a rotary brush to clean in smooth. Replaced belt the other way up. All bolts needed tightening
Stripped and greased starter.
Clean all airways.
Cleaned & oil foam filter. (junior too)
Put long spring from governor to carb back on.
Filled holes in exhaust, new metal covers and put in some new fibre glass.
Spark plug was quite black, so brushed it clean. This suggest too rich, but idle mix was made richer turning ACW.
Turned idle mix out (ie richer) by 1/8 turn, so now 1 7/8 out, Reduced idle by 1/2 turn acw.
Plug was greyish on checking.
Warm starts ok on mid throttle now. Cold start fine. Oil clean
Bike discs.
me
rear 4.8 . pads both 5.3
front
left 5.0 pads 4.46, 4.34
right 4.95 pads 4.2, 4.3
Stella
rear 4.9 pads both 4.6
front
left 5.0 pads 4.4, 4.0
right 4.9 pads 4.6 4.2
Thursday, 14 May 2015
Saturday, 25 April 2015
DIY wifi internet radio
The devil makes work for idle hands. Well, maybe, but SWMBO is busy in the garden just now, so I had to think of something to do myself.
I bought a MRF24WB wireless module a few years back to use for wireless remote data collection, but then I had to run a cable for something else and module never got used.
I build a wired internet radio a few years back, so having a portable version made sense. That and the BBC recently went from AAC streams to MP3, which completely messed up the other wifi radio we have - it works now, but not through 'normal' channels' It also gave me an excuse to play with direct memory access (DMA) which is extremely useful when you need to move a lot of data around.
Starting with a PIC I'd been given (thanks Mike) a 32MX675F512H, with 64k ram, an old Nokia 5110 LCD and along with a VLSI codec I had from the other radio project, the wifi module completed the package.
The design is nothing special, as the codec, LCD and wifi module are SPI devices. I've used the latest TCP/IP stack from Microchip (V5.42.08 - v2013-06-15) and added extra functions to connect to a radio station, parse the result for meta data (song title etc) It also has a web server, so new stations can be added, and you can see extra data such as bit rates etc. Couldn't resist adding buttons for volume and channel changing.
4 on-board buttons give menus to select and change stations, volume, mute,
etc.
In looking for a case, preferably with a transparent window, I came across some old battery boxes that came with rechargeable AAs from 7dayshop. It was a bit of a squeeze, but I got in everything I wanted. I didnt go for portable, as this would need batteries and charge controllers etc. It runs off a 5V USB charger, and I can always rig up a battery if needed. The speakers are external - old PC ones that everyone has lying around.
PCB - made using a paper mask on a laser printer. I have made similar ones on a inkjet, but the TQFP pads are always a bit iffy perpendicular to the plane of the print head.
Populated - top SMD side. The PIC crystal (center) is disproportionately large. The codec crystal is on the other side. Wifi module bottom left.
30 odd links on the bottom - I would have struggled to do this double sided, and in any event I don't have any board. Programming port and debug pin bottom right.
The working project
And boxed
It's been an interesting education in miniaturisation and my first almost fully surface mount. A few errors, but that's prototyping.
I've noticed that the router seems to give priority to other devices, as, during downloading on the PC, the data trickles to a halt on the radio - the wired version doesnt seem to suffer so much. A few bits of other software to sort out - it never ends really when you can tweak your own interface and add new features.
I bought a MRF24WB wireless module a few years back to use for wireless remote data collection, but then I had to run a cable for something else and module never got used.
I build a wired internet radio a few years back, so having a portable version made sense. That and the BBC recently went from AAC streams to MP3, which completely messed up the other wifi radio we have - it works now, but not through 'normal' channels' It also gave me an excuse to play with direct memory access (DMA) which is extremely useful when you need to move a lot of data around.
Starting with a PIC I'd been given (thanks Mike) a 32MX675F512H, with 64k ram, an old Nokia 5110 LCD and along with a VLSI codec I had from the other radio project, the wifi module completed the package.
The design is nothing special, as the codec, LCD and wifi module are SPI devices. I've used the latest TCP/IP stack from Microchip (V5.42.08 - v2013-06-15) and added extra functions to connect to a radio station, parse the result for meta data (song title etc) It also has a web server, so new stations can be added, and you can see extra data such as bit rates etc. Couldn't resist adding buttons for volume and channel changing.
4 on-board buttons give menus to select and change stations, volume, mute,
etc.
In looking for a case, preferably with a transparent window, I came across some old battery boxes that came with rechargeable AAs from 7dayshop. It was a bit of a squeeze, but I got in everything I wanted. I didnt go for portable, as this would need batteries and charge controllers etc. It runs off a 5V USB charger, and I can always rig up a battery if needed. The speakers are external - old PC ones that everyone has lying around.
PCB - made using a paper mask on a laser printer. I have made similar ones on a inkjet, but the TQFP pads are always a bit iffy perpendicular to the plane of the print head.
It's been an interesting education in miniaturisation and my first almost fully surface mount. A few errors, but that's prototyping.
I've noticed that the router seems to give priority to other devices, as, during downloading on the PC, the data trickles to a halt on the radio - the wired version doesnt seem to suffer so much. A few bits of other software to sort out - it never ends really when you can tweak your own interface and add new features.
Saturday, 21 February 2015
Cuba and myths
Thought I'd share some experiences about a recent trip to Cuba, February 2015.
- The Americans can't visit Cuba. Well, they can, under a research program. You couldn't move for them in one hotel, and I did whisper FFS as I got pushed out of the way so a perfectly modern Otis lift could be photographed inside. The state seems to get the last laugh, as the trips cost around 3 times that for Europeans
- the place is full of beggars. Not really. Seen more in London.
- give toiletries from the hotels to the beggars. Beggars will be desperate, but not desperate enough to eat soap. What do you think they will do with soap? Either give them 50c or ignore them.
- you must take US dollars. Well, if you earn in US dollars then it might make sense. Otherwise take one of the currencies that the Cuban bank trades in. They publish a full list and the state fixes the exchange rate.
- the water isn't potable. As a general rule, this may be true. We didn't drink the tap water, but I'm pretty sure the ice cubes (crushed in some cocktails) and lettuce washing in some places wasn't bottled water.
- you tip everywhere. Yep. That one is true, particularly the loos. Get some change in 25c pieces, but they won't chase you down the road if you don't tip.
- don't respond to whistles and 'taxi sir' which seem to occur all the time; they're just trying to make a living
- when looking for the tour bus in the airport car park, don't assume the smartly dressed guy that asks you for your tour company or bus number has anything to do with your tour. Most likely a porter who will help you with your case and wants a tip.
- No wifi. True, and little internet access too. It's available in some hotels, but it's very expensive - £10/day
- ATMs are few and far between, and generally only in the bigger cities. Make sure you take a card not issued by a US bank, or affiliation. Some UK debit/credit cards worked, some didn't, according to various people I met. Don't expect the machine to use English.
- I didn't see a single Visa/MC sign in a shop, so take cash.
- The classic old cars are in the minority, as they are difficult to repair and expensive to fuel.
- if you really can't live without wine, take plenty of money. A bottle of wine will cost at least £15, probably more, and often is not available per glass. You drink local beer or coffee; both are excellent.
- no real price mark up in hotels compared with shops on beer, wine, etc, but if you search out small outlets for lunch, you may get a beer for 75p vs £1.50. Only rich Cubans eat out; average Cuban wage is £25-£35/month. Those involved in tourism will earn considerably more - say £500/month.
- don't forget to enjoy yourself
Saturday, 31 January 2015
Gutters cleaned
This batch of cold weather and rain and washed all the leaves to the lowest spot on the house. Luckily, it's single storey.
Weather Station
The weather station lasted a week or so, then stopped working at high humidity again. I could buy a spare transmitter for £15 from a Clas Olson shop. It's special order, and I don't live anywhere near one to order and then go back to collect it.
So, I have an excuse for another project. I'd never been entirely happy with the way the data was sent (every 48s) You can't get a feel for conditions when the data is delayed.
I've made a new head end, re-used the wind/rain sensors, which will be wired into the main house data collector.
Data is sent every 2s. 2s was chosen due to the way the anemometer works. The OEM (fine offset) have confirmed the 2s period, so it seemed sensible to work to it. The minimum wind speed as a paltry 1 revolution per 2s (equivalent to 0.34m/s or 1.2kph)
With a few calculations, I can now send more, useful, data to Wunderground (http://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory.asp?ID=IHAUTEPY4)
I've also added UV index (ML8511 sensor) soil temperature (LM61) and solar radiation, which will be derived from the solar panels.
March 2015
In a fit of over re-cycling, I decided to re-use the original display to display the data that I now get from my weather station. Not wishing to take it apart, I decided to reverse the receive protocol. It was quite easy to send 1 set of info, but sending it every 48s, as per the original transmitter, was challenging. I had to increment the transmission interval in 0.1 second increments. Now that's the secret to keeping battery consumption down.
So, I have an excuse for another project. I'd never been entirely happy with the way the data was sent (every 48s) You can't get a feel for conditions when the data is delayed.
I've made a new head end, re-used the wind/rain sensors, which will be wired into the main house data collector.
Data is sent every 2s. 2s was chosen due to the way the anemometer works. The OEM (fine offset) have confirmed the 2s period, so it seemed sensible to work to it. The minimum wind speed as a paltry 1 revolution per 2s (equivalent to 0.34m/s or 1.2kph)
With a few calculations, I can now send more, useful, data to Wunderground (http://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory.asp?ID=IHAUTEPY4)
I've also added UV index (ML8511 sensor) soil temperature (LM61) and solar radiation, which will be derived from the solar panels.
March 2015
In a fit of over re-cycling, I decided to re-use the original display to display the data that I now get from my weather station. Not wishing to take it apart, I decided to reverse the receive protocol. It was quite easy to send 1 set of info, but sending it every 48s, as per the original transmitter, was challenging. I had to increment the transmission interval in 0.1 second increments. Now that's the secret to keeping battery consumption down.
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